Lucky

Looking out to the horizon, on a calm sea, waiting for the next sets of good waves -not few, but a tad too far between, I remembered "Break Point". That movie from when Keanu Reeves was the hottest man alive. I think I must have seen it a dozen times. Basically because of him and his grey T-shirt. However, I guess that what really remained in my head was the surfing and that's probably the main reason I took it up "this late in my career" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32uhQhJeP7o).
I am so happy I did. Today was my best surfing day so far and I felt so happy in the water and still do now. I will be at the surf camp for another 5 days and I'm sure I'll have one more day like today -and a few others almost as good.
Not only that, surfing is taking me to do things I wouldn't have do otherwise, as staying at a surf camp, where I double the age of most of my fellow campers. The good thing is that the only way forward, after the shock on arrival, was to relax and make the most of it. I'm almost starting to like it, in spite the loo is 50 metres from my shared dorm and food is far from organic, sugar-free, low-carbs, etc. It's refreshing at the end. I even played a drinking game the other night with a bunch of Northern Europeans in their late teens and early twenties. Didn't stay 'till the end, though, and went to bed early and mostly sober -I'm sleeping about 10 hours each night.
I don't feel like a melancholic fool, despite my earlier quote and song. I feel lucky.
Danced this three times on ANZAC Day eve in Sydney, so, of the few songs currently in my head, it's the right one to post: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NV6Rdv1a3I